My next experience is just 30 miles down Federal Highway 307, at the Rosewood Mayakoba. “It’s not just these magical beaches food is becoming a calling card for the Riviera Maya, as well.” Carrots and radishes from La Ceiba’s garden / Photo: Lindsay Lauckner Gundlock “It’s been an honor to be part of this evolution in Quintana Roo, seeing the arrival of new chefs and smashing old ideas of ‘hotel restaurants,’” chef Gómez Luna tells me as I polish off a dessert of carrot, guava, yogurt, and cotton candy. This opening cemented the Riviera Maya as a serious food destination-and it cemented my need to taste the change.īut, of course, I have to start at the beginning, Le Chique, where that coconut triumph is rivaled for greatness by just about all of the other 23 dishes I devour: fatty tuna with vanilla and seaweed, tongue and plantain in black mole, wild-caught mussels with the famous smoked sausage of nearby Valladolid. The hotel is a veritable playground for Mexico’s star chefs, with nine restaurant concepts, any one of which would be another resort’s flagship.
The cherry on top of this transformation was the opening, last July, of Hotel Xcaret Arte, 15 minutes south of Playa del Carmen. Creative Mexican chefs gradually filed in, and today one of the most exciting high-end restaurant scenes in Mexico can be found on the campuses of these secluded beachfront resorts. Yet, all the while, the success of Le Chique (along with the 2009 opening of Cocina de Autor at the Grand Velas) offered a sign that something was brewing amid the all-inclusive buffets and Señor Frog’s–style bacchanalia. The difference seemed to grow even more stark in the last few years, as the country’s culinary centers-Mexico City, Oaxaca, the Valle de Guadalupe-underwent a restaurant revolution. I’ve been vacationing here off and on for 25 years, and like many of my compatriots, I’ve often bemoaned the divide between the fantastic street food and the mostly generic, resort-based fine-dining scene. The draw of the Riviera Maya, a stretch of coastline along the Yucatán Peninsula between Cancún and Tulum, has traditionally been the beaches, the resorts, the Mayan ruins, the cenotes… but not necessarily the cuisine. Yet the restaurant, which chef Jonatán Gómez Luna opened in 2008, has long been an outlier in the region. Le Chique’s menu, a cutting-edge survey of regional Mexican cuisine, is replete with dishes like this. (The caviar, in fact, is a sly textural nod to Colima’s unique style of ceviche, made with finely minced fish.) It’s a cultural lesson on a stunningly delicious plate, one that’s likely lost on the pool-bar crowd. The dish is an ode to the tiny Pacific Coast state of Colima, where coconuts were first brought to Mexico in the 16th century. It consists of spongy sprouted coconut (aka “coconut apple”), gelatinous young coconut, coconut water, coconut shaved ice, and habanero-spiked coconut-milk aguachile-all of it served alongside a generous dollop of caviar. I’m seated at Le Chique, the restaurant at the Azul Beach Resort Riviera Cancún, and as I work my way through the 24-course menu, I’ve reached a dish known as coconut five ways. Partiers may be pounding piña coladas at a swim-up bar just a few feet away from me, but I’m interested in a far more refined coconut indulgence. If you've been using KAYAK successfully up until now, try closing your browser and starting again.Mexico’s Caribbean playground finally grows up-and stakes its unexpected claim as one of the country’s best fine-dining destinations Please send us a message and we'll try to figure out what went wrong. Probably something about the web browser you are using made KAYAK think you are a bot. They tend to try to cram large suitcases in the overhead bin, and they prattle on about celebrities they know while you are trying to watch the movie. For example, we don't want bots running about trying to book airline tickets.
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